Madagascar Travel Guide

Overview

Capital:

Antananarivo.

Geography:

Located 500km (300 miles) off the coast of Mozambique in the Indian Ocean, Madagascar is world’s fourth-largest island. Accompanied by several much smaller sibling isles, it is characterised by a central chain of high mountains, the Hauts Plateaux. This spiny ridge dominates the main island’s terrain and is a dividing line that marks Madagascar’s east-and-west differences in ethnicity, climate, and scenery.

On the east coast, a skinny strip of lowlands, settled from the sixth century by Polynesian seafarers, is largely covered by dense rainforests. The broader west-coast landscape, once clad in dry deciduous forests, is now mostly grasslands. On both coasts, the climate is wetter towards the north although the east coast receives the monsoon. Semi-desert and forests of cactus-like scrub characterises the island’s southern tip with much of Madagascar’s flora and fauna is wholly unique. Busy capital city, Antananarivo, is situated high up in the Hauts Plateaux and almost denotes the island’s geographical centre.

Getting There

Getting There By Air

Madagascar's national airline is Air Madagascar (www.airmadagascar.com). Although they are no longer banned from the list of carriers allowed into the EU due to safety concerns, the airline is still not recommended as cancellations and delays are common. Other major airlines serving the country include Air France (www.airfrance.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com) and Airlink (www.flyairlink.com), the last of which partners with South African Airways to connect Madagascar with countless countries via Johannesburg.

For flights to Madagascar within the Indian Ocean region, Air Austral (www.air-austral.com) and Air Mauritius (www.airmauritius.com) are the main operators.

Air Travel Note

International flights mainly go to Ivato airport (Antananarivo), with a few landing at Fascene airport (Nosy Be).

Departure Tax

None.

Flight Times

From London - 16 hours (including stopover); from New York - 19 hours (including stopover).

Getting There By Water

The country’s main port is at Tamatave. There are also ports at Diego Suarez, Majunga, Morondava, Fort Dauphin and Tuléar. It is occasionally possible to book a passenger cabin on a cargo ship that is scheduled to call at a Malagasy port.

Getting Around

Getting Around By Air

Air Madagascar (www.airmadagascar.com) operates flights from the capital city to Diego Suarez, Majunga, Nosy Be, Ile Sainte Marie, Tamatave, Tulear and Fort Dauphin most days. Less regular Air Madagascar services connect a further half dozen towns across the country.

No other airlines provide scheduled domestic flights, but five or six charter companies have light aircraft and helicopters for passenger transfers to more than 80 airstrips nationwide.

Nosy Be and Ile Sainte Marie are islands and are most readily accessed by air. On the mainland, some towns are not easily accessible overland. As such, most people prefer to fly to Fort Dauphin, Maroantsetra, Sambava and Antalaha.

Advance booking is necessary on popular routes during peak season (typically July to September and around Christmas and New Year).

Air Travel Note

It takes a little under 90 minutes to fly from Antananarivo to the far north or south of Madagascar.

Air Madagascar offers up to 50% off domestic flights for those who also use them as their international carrier.

Bike

Many adventurous tourists consider motorbike or mountain bike to be the best means of transport if you want to get off the beaten track and keep en element of independence. You can hire both forms of transport from several companies, especially in the capital.

Breakdown Services

There are no breakdown services – another reason why hiring a vehicle with a driver is a good idea. Your driver will have the necessary equipment and knowledge to repair the vehicle or, if necessary, be able to communicate with locals to enlist their help if you break down.

Car Hire

You can easily find car-hire agencies in all the main towns. Hire cars are typically 4-wheel drives as you need a good vehicle to cope with the rough access roads to national parks and other rural sites.

Note that car hire in Madagascar almost always includes a driver. Few companies hire out self-drive vehicles, and in any case there is no real difference in cost between hiring with or without a driver.

The minimum driving age is 18, however most driving agencies including Hertz and Sixt require their drivers to be at least 23 to hire a car. 

Coach

Between towns, public transport is in the form of taxi-brousses. These are typically minibuses with around 15 seats.

For relatively short journeys (up to an hour or so) as many as 30 passengers may be crammed in, but on longer journeys (sometimes in excess of 24 hours for the most far-flung destinations on bad roads) each paying passenger gets a seat to himself.

Luggage is usually strapped to the roof (and covered with a tarpaulin if rain is likely).

These taxi-brousses are run by numerous cooperatives. Each town has at least one taxi-brousse station, where each cooperative has a ticket kiosk listing the destinations they serve.

Departure Tax

None.

Documentation

A national driving licence is sufficient but an International Driving Permit is advised for minimal hassle at police checkpoints.

You must also carry your passport, insurance documents, vehicle hire agreement and any other vehicle paperwork at all times when driving.

Getting Around By Rail

Madagascar’s rail network is limited to just two relatively short lines. The first connects Fianarantsoa in the highlands with Manakara on the east coast, and takes about eight hours each way. A single train operates the route, going down one day and back up the next.

The second rail line connects Moramanga with Tamatave (ten hours), and has a side branch to Ambatondrazaka. This railway also has just one passenger train in operation.

Rail lines also run from the capital city east to Moramanga and south Antsirabe, but neither route runs a regular passenger service. There is a Micheline (1930s rubber-wheeled train) that occasionally does weekend tourist outings to Andasibe and Antsirabe along these two lines.

Regulations

You must carry all relevant documents when driving, including your passport. There are regular police checkpoints where these may be requested.

Drivers and passengers must wear seatbelts and there are strict rules about driving under the influence of drink or drugs.

The highway code explicitly states that you must give way not only to ambulance, police and fire vehicles but also to security trucks transporting money and to the presidential convoy.

Getting Around By Road

Madagascar has less than 6,000km (3,728 miles) of paved roads. To appreciate just how limited this road network is, consider that it is just over just over 1% of the size of the UK’s, despite Madagascar being a considerably larger country!

Road Classification

The main routes are called 'Route Nationale' (RN), but this designation is not necessarily an indication of quality. The RN5, RN10 and RN13, for example, have not been well maintained for decades so are only passable in a good 4-wheel drive – and even then only at walking speed in many sections.

Road Quality

Malagasy road surfacing is done cheaply with poor materials, and many of the roads are subjected to severe weather conditions each rainy season. Consequently potholes develop rapidly, and a 'fast' road can become a slow one in a matter of a couple of years.

Presently, the roads connecting the capital city with Tuléar (RN7), Tamatave (RN2), Majunga (RN4), Diego Suarez (RN6), Morondava (RN34/35) and Manakara (RN25) are largely in good condition.

Most roads are little more than dirt tracks, many of which become impassable during the rainy season (November/December to March/April).

Owing to security issues, travelling by road during hours of darkness is inadvisable (including by bus). Daytime driving is safe in almost all areas.

Side Of Road

r

Taxi

Taxis can be found in most cities and large towns and are an affordable way of getting around. Drivers are generally reliable and friendly. In the capital city taxis are plentiful. They are normally coloured cream and marked with a rooftop taxi sign.

Taxis do not have meters. In some towns there are pre-determined rates (usually a flat fare for any trip within the town) but elsewhere, including in Antananarivo, you should agree a price before setting off.

Urban Travel

Rickshaws called pousse-pousses are popular in some of the flatter towns, most notably Antsirabe. In recent years they are increasingly being replaced by the quicker cyclo-pousses (cycle rickshaws). Prices are not fixed and are agreed before getting in, depending on the distance to be travelled; a higher amount may be demanded in rain or after dark.

Getting Around By Water

Madagascar has a strong maritime tradition and there are many coastal transport services. Rapids render many of the rivers unnavigable.

Tour operators can organise small-boat descents of some of the western rivers, including Tsiribihina, Manambolo, Mangoky, Mahavavy, Betsiboka and Onilahy, with overnight camping stops.

The Pangalanes Canal runs for more than 650km (400 miles) along the east coast, south of Tamatave. Some sections are too clogged with vegetation to be navigable nowadays, but the northernmost third is popular with tourists.

Many operators offer multi-day live-aboard yacht charters (including some specialising in fishing or diving) from Nosy Be, either going northeast to the Mitsio archipelago or southwest to the Radama archipelago.

Travel Advice

Before you travel 

No travel can be guaranteed safe. Read all the advice in this guide. You may also find it helpful to: 

• see general advice for women travellers
• read our guide on disability and travel abroad
• see general advice for LGBT+ travellers
• read about safety for solo and independent travel
• see advice on volunteering and adventure travel abroad

Travel insurance 

If you choose to travel, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance. Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency. 

About FCDO travel advice

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) provides advice about risks of travel to help you make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice. 

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This information is for people travelling on a full 'British citizen' passport from the UK. It is based on the UK government's understanding of Madagascar's current rules for the most common types of travel.

The authorities in Madagascar set and enforce entry rules. If you're not sure how these requirements apply to you, contact the Embassy of Madagascar in London. 

Passport validity requirements 

To enter Madagascar, your passport must have an 'expiry date' at least 6 months after the date you arrive. It must also have at least 2 blank pages.  

Check with your travel provider that your passport and other travel documents meet requirements. Renew your passport if you need to.  

You will be denied entry if you do not have a valid travel document or try to use a passport that has been reported lost or stolen.

Visa requirements 

You can visit Madagascar for up to 15 days without a visa. You must pay a 10-euro administration fee on arrival and be ready to show your onward or return tickets. 

Applying for a visa 

If you want to stay longer than 15 days, you can buy a 30- or 60-day single-entry tourist visa on arrival at the airport with US dollars, euros or Malagasy ariary.  

You can also apply in advance to the Embassy of Madagascar in London for a tourist or immigrant visa. 

You can extend either of these visas to a maximum total stay of 90 days while you are in Madagascar. If you overstay, you may be detained or deported.  

Travelling with children 

A child aged 17 or under, travelling without one or either parent must carry written authorisation from the absent parent or parents when leaving Madagascar. 

Vaccine requirements  

To enter Madagascar, you must have a certificates to prove you've had:  

• a yellow fever vaccination if you're coming from a country listed as a transmission risk
• a polio vaccine in some circumstances

For full details about medical entry requirements and recommended vaccinations, see TravelHealthPro's Madagascar guide. 

Health screening

Cholera

If you are entering Madagascar from a Cholera-affected country, you may be asked by airport authorities to take an anti-cholera drug (Doxcyline). Anyone who is unable to take Doxcyline should be offered an alternative medication by the health authorities.

Alternative medication will be provided to those that: 

• are pregnant 
• are under 8 years old  
• have a pre existing medical condition

You are likely to be asked to leave contact details with the health authorities and they may follow up with you after 3-5 days.

Customs rules 

There are strict rules about goods you can take into or out of Madagascar. You must declare anything that may be prohibited or subject to tax or duty. 

Taking food into and out of Madagascar 

Do not take in any food, including fruit, as this is illegal. 

When leaving Madagascar you may, after declaring and showing receipts, take out: 

• up to 2kg of vanilla 
• up to 1kg of pepper or cloves 

You may only export other plant and animal products if you get permission.

Taking money into Madagascar 

You can take up to 400,000 Malagasy ariary into Madagascar.  

Declare foreign cash or travellers cheques if the value is 7,500 euros or more. You will get a certified declaration to show you brought it with you. If you do not, your money could be seized when you leave. 

This guide also has safety advice for regions of Madagascar. 

Terrorism  

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times.    

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on staying safe abroad and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad.

Terrorism in Madagascar 

Terrorist attacks in Madagascar cannot be ruled out. 

Terrorist attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places frequented by foreign nationals.

Political situation  

Politically linked rallies are possible, particularly in the run up to planned local elections on 6 November.

Protests, particularly in cities, can sometimes turn violent. Security forces in central Antananarivo may close roads and use tear gas in response to demonstrations. Avoid large gatherings and political demonstrations.

Crime 

Robberies and thefts are commonplace throughout Madagascar. Foreigners are targets for pickpockets and muggers.  

Beaches and islands 

Avoid visiting isolated and remote beaches, especially alone. Get local advice or use an experienced travel operator when visiting any beach. There have been violent robberies and assaults even in the daytime in many popular coastal locations including: 

• Nosy Be island  
• Ankify Port  
• Ambanja  
• beaches to the south and north of Toliara (Tuléar) 

Protecting yourself and your belongings 

To reduce the risk of street crime: 

• avoid walking alone in city centres or poorly lit urban areas after dark  
• use pre-booked taxis or hotel transport  
• be alert even in nature reserves, national parks and beaches 
• be wary of people approaching you in an over-friendly manner 
• be on the alert for criminals acting in pairs 
• do not use your mobile or show cash while on the street 

Vehicle crime 

There are frequent armed robberies on main roads, particularly at night. Where possible, drive in a convoy and avoid driving outside major towns after dark. Either use a recognised tour operator or ask your hotel to arrange transport. Always keep car doors locked and windows closed, particularly in Antananarivo. 

See regional risks to find out which roads are particularly dangerous. 

Due to the risk of robbery, avoid using multi-passenger taxi vans ('taxi-brousses' or 'bush taxis'). If you're attacked in any vehicle, do not resist or argue as the criminal could be armed. Stay calm and agree to their demands.  

If you are stopped by security personnel or police, ask for ID as there have been reports of criminals falsely claiming to be police. 

Report any incident to the police if possible. Take a copy of the police report if you need it for an insurance claim. 

Criminal kidnaps 

There have been occasional instances of criminal kidnapping for ransom in Madagascar, targeting individuals (normally Malagasy nationals) perceived to be wealthy.

When arranging business meetings use a secure location. Be aware of your surroundings and always let someone you trust know your whereabouts, especially after dark. If you are a victim of kidnapping, follow the kidnapper's instructions.

Laws and cultural differences  

Local taboos ('fady')  

In many parts of Madagascar, aspects of daily life are regulated by taboos, known as 'fady'. These vary from one region to another. Fady can range from forbidden foods to restrictions on clothing.  

If you plan to visit remote rural areas, get advice from your tour operator or a local guide. They can advise you about how to behave in certain locations.  

If you plan a longer stay in a village, first check if you should inform the head of the local authority ('Fokontany') and the village head or wise man ('Ray aman-dreny'). 

Personal ID 

Always carry your passport with you, as police randomly make ID checks and do not always accept copies. Keep a copy of your passport's photo page, visa and insurance details somewhere safe, and leave further copies with family or friends in the UK. 

Public offences 

Paying for sex is illegal. The penalty is a fine of 1,500 to 7,000 euros and possibly a prison sentence of up to 10 years.  

The law against sexual abuse of underage children (aged 17 and under) is strictly enforced, especially for incidents that involve foreign tourists. Underage sex workers may carry fake identity cards. You could be prosecuted or bribed in this situation. 

Illegal drugs and prison sentences 

Drug smuggling is a serious offence. Punishments can be severe and prison conditions are harsh and life-threatening. 

Security personnel and police 

Be alert to the possibility of over-reaction by security personnel. Avoid actions that might provoke them, such as taking photographs of them. If you're stopped by the police, show respect and stay calm.  

LGBT+ travellers 

Same-sex sexual activity is legal among persons of at least 21 years old. However public attitudes are less tolerant than in the UK and showing affection in public may receive negative attention. 

Read more advice for LGBT+ travellers. 

Wildlife, animal products and souvenirs 

It's illegal to collect, buy or export protected animals, plants or products made from them. This includes certain woods such as items made of rosewood. If you buy anything made of wild animal skin or shell, check with the vendor exactly what information you can give to customs if they ask for details. 

Stadiums and venues 

Security and safety standards at stadiums and venues in Madagascar may be lower than in the UK. If you go to a large-scale event, make sure you know the location of fire exits and check exit routes. On 25 August 2023 there was a crush at the gates of Mahamasina Stadium in the capital, Antananarivo, where at least 12 people were killed.

Transport risks  

Road travel  

If you are planning to drive in Madagascar, see information on driving abroad. You need to have both the correct version of the international driving permit (IDP) and your UK driving licence with you in the car.

You cannot buy an IDP outside the UK, so get one before you travel.

Road conditions vary greatly and are often poor. Many roads outside Antananarivo have steep gradients and sharp bends. Heavy freight trucks use the roads. Drive with extreme care as drivers often fail to signal and pull out sharply. Avoid driving at night as vehicles often have no lights and few roads are lit. 

In the rainy season, from December to April, many secondary roads are impassable except by 4-wheel-drive vehicles and bridges are often washed away.  

Do not stop if you're involved in, or see, an accident. Call the police on 117 or drive to the next town and report to the police directly. 

Taxis 

There are frequent road deaths involving multi-passenger taxi vans ('taxi-brousses' or 'bush taxis').  

Use pre-booked taxis or hotel transport. If you have concerns about the safety of a vehicle or the ability of a driver, ask for a different driver.  

River and sea travel 

Armed criminals have boarded boats on the Tsiribihina River in western Madagascar and robbed the passengers. Seek alternative routes. 

Get local advice on ferries from Tamatave-Sonierana to Sainte Marie Island and the west coast (Toliara/Tuléar, Morondava, Mahajanga and Nosy Be). There have been accidents with causalities due to overcrowding, poor maintenance, poor crew training and unexpected squalls. Check weather conditions locally before travelling. 

There is a significant risk of piracy in the Gulf of Aden and Indian Ocean. Pirates can attack up to 1,000 nautical miles from the Somali coast or more. The threat assessment of the combined international naval counter-piracy forces is that sailing yachts should not enter the designated high-risk area, due to the risk of hijacking.

Extreme weather and natural disasters  

Cyclones 

The cyclone season in Madagascar normally runs from November to April. Coastal areas are particularly at risk. Storms can cut access to remote parts of the country and contaminate water supplies.  

Monitor local news and check World Meteorological Organization weather warnings for Madagascar, Meteo Madagascar (French) or Cyclone Océan Indien (French, Malagasy). 

Find out what you can do to prepare for and respond to cyclone warnings. 

This section has safety advice for regions of Madagascar. It only covers regions where FCDO has specific advice.  

You should also read FCDO's overall travel advice and safety and security advice.  

Central Madagascar 

In 2022, over 30 people were killed when criminals (often referred to as 'dahalo') set fire to buildings in a village in Ankazobe District, north-west of Antananarivo. Armed forces are active in the area. Dahalo have not targeted tourists but you should seek local advice before travelling there. 

Northern Madagascar 

Use an official local guide if you're visiting the Montagne des Français protected area. Take local advice if visiting beaches as there have been opportunistic attacks on tourists. 

Cyclone Gamane 

Cyclone Gamane struck areas of north and northeast Madagascar on 27 March, causing damage to the road network in the districts of Analanjirofo, Diana, Atsinanana and Sava. Check the latest information if planning to drive through these areas.

Southern Madagascar 

Violent incidents involving cattle rustlers ('dahalo') in southern Madagascar have resulted in fatalities. Tourists have not been targeted, but you should avoid staying in rural areas without security arrangements. Madagascar's armed forces are active in southern Madagascar. 

In 2021, a large-scale attack on 3 villages in Midongy District resulted in the deaths of 17 civilians and 2 military officers. Other attacks have taken place: 

• to the north of Fort Dauphin 
• around the township of Betroka 
• along the west coast between Belo sur Tsiribihina and Toliara (Tuléar)  
• in the Commune of Ilakakabe (near Isalo National Park) 

The security situation in the southern triangle between Ihosy, Toliara (Tuléar) and Fort Dauphin remains tense, and the roads are in a poor condition. You should use a recognised tour operator and avoid travelling at night in this area. If travelling to Fort Dauphin, you should travel by air. 

Criminal gangs have attacked vehicles travelling in convoy on the RN7 (between Antananarivo and Toliara (Tuléar).  

Be vigilant when visiting night clubs in Toliara (Tuléar). 

On 3 July 2023, demonstrations in the Lanirano area to the east of Fort Dauphin turned violent with reports of gunfire and injury to civilians. 

Western Madagascar 

Due to the risk of violent highway robberies, you should use a recognised tour operator when travelling in the region between Besalampy and Morombe, including the RN35 and RN1 (between Tsiroanomandidy and Maintirano). You should also maintain a high level of vigilance if you travel on the following roads: RN7, RN27, RN10 and RN34. Avoid travelling at night. 

Before you travel check that: 

• your destination can provide the healthcare you may need 
• you have appropriate travel insurance for local treatment or unexpected medical evacuation 

This is particularly important if you have a health condition or are pregnant. 

Emergency medical number 

Call 117 from a mobile or 17 from a landline and ask for an ambulance. 

Contact your insurance company quickly if you're referred to a medical facility for treatment. 

Vaccine recommendations and health risks 

At least 8 weeks before your trip: 

• check the latest vaccine recommendations for Madagascar 
• see where to get vaccines and whether you have to pay on the NHS travel vaccinations page 

See what health risks you'll face in Madagascar including:

• malaria
• dengue
• Schistosomiasis

Altitude sickness is a risk in parts of Madagascar. Read more about altitude sickness on TravelHealthPro.  

Tap water in Madagascar is unsafe. You should drink and use only boiled or bottled water and avoid ice in drinks. There are high levels of syphilis in Madagascar.

Medication 

The legal status and regulation of some medicines prescribed or bought in the UK can be different in other countries. 

Read best practice when travelling with medicines on TravelHealthPro. 

Healthcare in Madagascar 

Although there are public and private hospitals in Antananarivo, they can only handle routine operations. For complex surgery, patients are flown to Mauritius, South Africa or Réunion. Make sure you have adequate travel health insurance and accessible funds to cover the cost of any medical treatment abroad and repatriation. 

FCDO has a list of medical providers in Madagascar where some staff will speak English. 

There is also guidance on healthcare if you're living in Madagascar.  

Travel and mental health 

Read FCDO guidance on travel and mental health. There is also mental health guidance on TravelHealthPro. 

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) cannot provide tailored advice for individual trips. Read this travel advice and carry out your own research before deciding whether to travel. 

Emergency services in Madagascar 

Ambulance or police emergency 

Telephone: 17  

Mobile: 117  

To contact the police station directly, call 19, or 119 from a mobile phone. 

Fire 

Telephone: 18  

Mobile: 118 

Contact your travel provider and insurer 

Contact your travel provider and your insurer if you are involved in a serious incident or emergency abroad. They will tell you if they can help and what you need to do. 

Refunds and changes to travel 

For refunds or changes to travel, contact your travel provider. You may also be able to make a claim through insurance. However, insurers usually require you to talk to your travel provider first. 

Find out more about changing or cancelling travel plans, including: 

• where to get advice if you are in a dispute with a provider 
• how to access previous versions of travel advice to support a claim

Support from FCDO 

FCDO has guidance on staying safe and what to do if you need help or support abroad, including: 

• finding English-speaking lawyers, funeral directors and translators and interpreters in Madagascar 
• dealing with a death in Madagascar 
• being arrested or imprisoned in Madagascar 
• getting help if you're a victim of crime  
• what to do if you're in hospital  
• if you're affected by a crisis, such as a terrorist attack 

Contacting FCDO 

Help abroad  

See how to get help from the UK government abroad including in an emergency. 

Help in the UK  

You can call  FCDO in London if you need urgent help because something has happened to a friend or relative abroad.  

Telephone: 020 7008 5000 (24 hours)  

Find out about call charges

Get travel advice updates  

Sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.  

Follow and contact FCDO: 

• travel advice on X

• travel advice on Facebook

Vaccinations

Title	Special Precautions
Diphtheria	Yes
Hepatitis A	Yes
Malaria	Yes
Rabies	Sometimes
Tetanus	Yes
Typhoid	Yes
Yellow Fever	No*

Overview:

Much of the healthcare in Madagascar is robust, with several hospitals and health care centres spread throughout the country. However, services are sometimes lacking, and whilst basic healthcare is free, hospitals are often woefully under staffed. Health insurance is strongly recommended; it should include cover for emergency repatriation. Private healthcare is also available. Pharmacies are thin on the ground so visitors should stock up and pack plenty of medication for stomach upsets as effective remedies in the country will be limited. There is no emergency ambulance service on the island, although a private air ambulance service is available. The emergency number for police is 17.

Vaccinations Note:

* A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers coming from infected areas.

Food Drink:

Visitors should not drink the tap water in Madagascar. Water quality country-wide is likely to be contaminated so water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should be sterilised or boiled first. Milk is unpasteurised and so the widely-available powdered or tinned milk is advised. Dairy products are also best avoided. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Check all food is well-cooked, especially meat and fish.

Other Risks:

Bilharzia is common but travellers can avoid it by avoiding swimming and paddling in fresh water and saving their swims for only clean, well-chlorinated swimming pools. Vaccinations against tuberculosis and hepatitis B are sometimes advised. There have been outbreaks of human plague in Northwest Madagascar as well as in other regions; travellers should avoid handling sick or dead animals and take insect protection measures such as wearing repellent. Malaria is a risk in Madagascar, so do take steps to protect yourself by taking a course of anti-malarials.

Currency Information:

Ariary (MGA; symbol Ar) = 5 iraimbilanja. Notes are in denominations of Ar20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000, 1,000, 500, 200 and 100. Coins are in denominations of Ar50, 20, 10, 5, 2, 1, and 2, 1 iraimbilanja.

Note: Malagasy Francs are no longer accepted.

Credit Cards:

American Express, Diners Club, Mastercard and Visa are accepted at top-end hotels in Tana and the provincial capitals. However, outside of the main cities cash is king.

ATMs:

ATMs can be found in and around the capital and in some of the larger towns. However, many of these only take visa; the daily withdrawal limit is 400,000Ar.

Travellers Cheques:

These can be exchanged in banks and major hotels. Traveller's cheques in Euros or US Dollars are advisable to avoid additional exchange rate charges. Cashing traveller's cheques can be very time-consuming.

Banking Hours:

Mon-Fri 0800-1100 and 1400-1600.

Currency Restrictions:

The import and export of local currency is restricted to the amount of 400,000 Ar. There are no restrictions on the import or export of foreign currency, but amounts exceeding the equivalent of MGA10,000,000 need to be declared. 

Currency Exchange:

Currency can be bought only at banks and official bureaux de change in hotels and at the airport in Antananarivo. Exchange rates in hotels are less-favourable than other outlets. The Ariary is a non-convertible currency and cannot be exchanged back into tradable currency. Changing small amounts, as required, is therefore advisable.

Currencies

Code	Symbol
MGA	Ar

Exchange Rates

3466.10

4127.60

3333.00

Language

English is not widely spoken. Malagasy (which is related to Indonesian) and French are the official languages. Local dialects are also common.

Overview:

Public holidays are listed here.

.

List Of Public Holidays

Title	Start Date	To Be Confirmed
New Year's Day	2024-01-01 00:00:00	0
Martyrs' Day	2024-03-29 00:00:00	0
Easter Monday	2024-04-01 00:00:00	0
Labour Day	2024-05-01 00:00:00	0
Ascension Day	2024-05-09 00:00:00	0
Independence Day	2024-06-26 00:00:00	0
Assumption	2024-08-15 00:00:00	0
All Saint's Day	2024-11-01 00:00:00	0
Christmas Day	2024-12-25 00:00:00	0

Overview:

The following goods can be imported into Madagascar without incurring customs duty:

• 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250g tobacco (by persons 18 years of age and over);

• 2L alcoholic beverages (by persons 18 years of age and over);

• 2 bottles of wine (by persons 18 years of age and over);

• 2 x 100ml perfume or Eau de toilette;

• Personal effects and gifts up to a value of €1,000.

• 1 portable computer, 1 tablet, 1 smartphone when travelling not more than two times within one month to Madagascar.

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Banned Imports:

Unauthorised firearms and ammunition, and endangered species (unless accompanied by a CITES permit). 

Plants, fruit and vegetables require a phytosanitary certificate.

Telephone:

For cheap calls buy a telephone card – you can buy cards almost everywhere, including post offices and hotels – and use a public telephone booth. These are found more commonly in the main cities but their usage has been eclipsed by growing mobile phone ownership.

Mobile Telephone:

Roaming agreements exist with international mobile phone companies. Coverage reaches major cities and main roads but is scarce in rural areas. If you have an unlocked phone, consider picking up a Malagasy sim card and using this for your stay; it is far cheaper to make calls this way.

Internet:

Public Internet access exists in large cities; there are a few internet cafés in Antananarivo but connections tend to be horribly slow. Many post office also offer internet facilities.

Post

Airmail to Europe takes at least seven days and surface mail three to four months.

Post Office Hours:

Mon-Sat 0700-1500.

Media:

Madagascar's constitution does allow for a free press, but whilst freedom of speech is generally respected, in reality the dominant voice is that of the government, since much of the country's media is state-sponsored. Ousted President Ravalomanana owns the Malagasy Broadcasting System, which operates MBS TV and Radio MBS, and many private radio stations in the capital are owned by pro-Ravalomanana politicians. Although nationwide radio and TV broadcasting remain the monopoly of the state, there are hundreds of private local radio and TV stations.

A boom in privately-owned FM radio stations and more critical political reporting by the print media followed a 1990s law on press freedom. However, during the island's recent political turmoil many Malagasy journalists have faced censorship, threats, and arrest for reporting contentious issues or voicing critical opinion. There are no English-language newspapers on the island, with the main newspapers, such as La Gazette de la Grande Ile, Madagascar Tribune and Midi Madagasikara being published in French or Malagasy. Privately owned radio stations include Radio Don Bosco (Roman Catholic FM station), Radio Tsioka Vao and Radio Korail. Malagasy National Radio (RNM) is state-owned.

Capture the craftsmanship of Antsirabe

See the wonderful arts and crafts in Antsirabe: taking a pousse-pousse tour of artisanal workshops is the thing to do in this bustling highland town. Marvel at the skill of local craftsmen creating toys from recycled tin cans, wooden sculptures, zebu-horn jewellery, polished gems and minerals, embroidered tablecloths, silk scarves, raffia handicrafts and more.

Swim in seclusion at Anakao

Relax on the idyllic beaches in this isolated southwestern Vezo fishing village. On offer are pirogue (dugout canoe) trips to nearby mangroves and islands, including one that's home to the world's southernmost breeding colony of red-tailed tropicbirds. A day trip to the salt lake at Tsimanampetsotsa National Park is a must.

Cameras at the ready for Baobab Alley

This natural avenue of imposing Grandidier’s baobabs is one of Madagascar’s must-see sights. Located some 35 minutes from Morondava, on the dusty track to Kirindy Reserve, Baobab Alley is best visited around sunrise or sunset because the softer lighting brings out the red tones of the tree trunks and makes for a splendid photo opportunity.

Wander the rugged beauty of Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park

Delve into one of the most striking national parks on the planet. At Tsingy de Bemaraha, there are undisturbed forests, lakes and canyons – but top of the bill is the incredible limestone karst known as tsingy. These vast forests of limestone pinnacles make for a landscape unlike any other.

Seek out spectacular sea life, Mitsio Archipelago

The Mitsio islands have fantastic beaches, glorious turquoise waters, and some truly world-class dive sites. Revel in the deep-water discovery of boxfish, barracuda, rays, sea urchins, starfish, eels, and a thousand other creatures of the reef. The area is best explored by chartering a catamaran from Nosy Be.

Explore the afterlife at Ambalavao

Dabble in the macabre at Ambalavao (the so-called "home of the departed") where the revered bones of exhumed ancestors lie. The spectacular crags of Ambondrome and Ifandana were the site of a mass suicide in 1811, though the region is also known for its Ataimoro paper and silk weaving today.

Follow the scent to Nosy Be

Follow the exotic perfumed lure of Nosy Be and the surrounding islets of Nosy Komba (famous for its black lemurs), Nosy Sakatia and Nosy Tanikely (a marine reserve with exceptional snorkelling). On Nosy Be itself, sweet-smelling plants such as ylang-ylang, vanilla, lemongrass and patchouli fill the air with a delectable fragrance.

Admire majestic architecture at the Queen's Palace

The rova (palace) surveys the capital city from its highest point, recently partly rebuilt following a terrible fire in 1995. The original wooden palace was built by Frenchman Jean Laborde in 1839 – its exterior was later clad in stone by Scottish missionary, James Cameron. Take a tour of the compound to learn about Madagascar's dramatic royal history.

Look at the lemurs of Montagne d'Arbre National Park

Discover waterfalls, orchids and lemurs at Amber Mountain. This 18,500ha (45,715-acre) national park is the country's oldest, protecting some splendid montane rainforest. Ranging in altitude between 850m (2,790ft) and 1,475m (4,840ft), the mountain has its own microclimate. Sanford's lemurs and crowned lemurs are easily seen, as well as countless reptiles and birds.

Witness the watery wonders of Lake Itasy

Explore the lush, volcanic region of Ampefy, renowned for its spectacular geysers and waterfalls on the banks of beautiful Itasy Lake. Amidst rolling hills, the thunderous torrents of Chute de la Lily's cascades are an unforgettable highlight – but be prepared for a reverberating roar.

Explore the palaces of former capital, Ambohimanga

Perhaps the most sacred site in all Madagascar, Ambohimanga (Blue Hill) was the original capital when the great king Andrianampoinimerina began his reign in 1787. The compound is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and comprises more than a dozen impressive stone gates, the king's house and various elegant royal summerhouses.

Call in at Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Close to the capital, this is Madagascar's most accessible rainforest reserve, and also one of the most rewarding. Frogs, reptiles and birds abound, but top of the bill is the indri, the largest of all living lemurs. These creatures sing a haunting song (reminiscent of whale song), which carries for miles across the forest.

Meander the Tsiribihina River mangroves

Spend three to five days floating down the tranquil Tsiribihina River to the east coast, ending up near to Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park. If you want to get off the beaten track, then other less touristy rivers include the Manambolo, Mangoky, Mahavavy, Betsiboka and Onilahy.

Enjoy a tea break at the Sahambavy Estate

For almost half a century, this estate has been producing green tea (and black tea since 2004). The 335ha (828-acre) plantation yields more than 550 tonnes of tea every year, most of which is destined for Kenya. Guided factory tours take around one hour and end with a tasting.

Find out about flora at Arboretum d'Antsokay

Near to Tuléar, this botanical garden showcases some 900 plant species endemic to Madagascar's arid south. You'll learn about the plants and how they are used in construction, food and medicine. Birders will also find this place rewarding and there are some bungalows for those wishing to linger.

Explore the otherworldly Spiny Forest

Unique to Madagascar, the dry and inhospitable spiny forest of the far south is a most curious and startling ecosystem. All of its botanical wonders are perfectly adapted to this tough environment, often preserving precious water in their swollen succulent forms protected by vicious prickles. The strange waving fingers of octopus trees add to the habitat's otherworldly feel.

Ride the breaks at Libanona Beach

Grab your surfboard and hit the waves that break on offshore coral reefs to experience the island's little-known surf thrills. The surf at Libanona Beach in Fort Dauphin is suitable for beginners. Other top riding spots include Lavanono and Anakao, while the far northeast of Madagascar is the place for kitesurfing.

Walk the history-rich hills of Antananarivo

Revel in the distinctively French flavour and ambience of Madagascar's history-rich capital. The quaint winding streets and vast markets are best explored on foot, but you can't go far without a steep climb – this city is built on seven hills. For the best views across all of Antananarivo, head to the area around the Queen's Palace.

Overview

Handicrafts include textiles such as lamba (traditional sarong-like cloths in various designs worn by women in a number of different ways, including as a sling for carrying their babies) and silk scarves, usually made from the rough silk of an endemic silkworm rather than the smooth silk more typically found abroad.

Crocheted and embroidered table cloths are also a popular product of the northern and central areas, especially Nosy Be and Tamatave. Good quality cotton T-shirts printed with Malagasy designs and slogans are found everywhere.

Wooden items are popular, either carved or with marquetry, including chessboards and boxes. The main centre for woodwork is Ambositra on the RN7 south of the capital. Wooden musical instruments include djembe drums and the valiha (Malagasy tube zither).

Most wooden handicrafts are made from palisander, rosewood or ebony, all precious slow-growing hardwoods being logged from the forests at an alarming rate, so there is an ethical issue with buying carved souvenirs.

Jewellery includes silver bracelets and items made from zebu horn and precious stones. Polished specimens of semi-precious minerals come in endless variety, betraying the country's fascinating and diverse geology.

Toy cars and taxi-brousses handmade from recycled tins make for a particularly novel and colourful gift. They can be found on markets in the capital.

Other souvenirs include items woven from reeds, raffia, sisal and straw (including hats, bags and ornamental animals). Antaimoro paper, decorated with embedded dried flowers, is sold as sheets, notebooks, bookmarks, and even made into picture frames, purses and lampshades.

For those who prefer edible souvenirs, you will be offered vanilla pods, peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, cloves and other spices; there is locally produced chocolate too (look for the Robert brand). Malagasy wine is available although the quality is mostly rather mediocre.

Note that products incorporating flora or fauna, as well as gems and minerals, often require export permits. Consult the relevant ministry kiosk at the airport.

Opening Hours

Mon-Sat 0900-1730 with closure of around two hours for lunch.

Overview

At first glance, the cuisine of Madagascar can appear quite dull. Traditionally the Malagasy eat a large mound of rice, dwarfing the surprisingly small accompanying portion of meat, vegetables and sauce.

Tourist establishments tend to serve meals with the rice-to-accompaniment ratio turned on its head. These dishes tend to have a French influence and fries are often offered in place of rice.

Zebu (beef) steaks are usually excellent and most commonly served with a delicious creamy green peppercorn sauce. On the coast, seafood naturally predominates, including all manner of fish, as well as lobster and shellfish. Pizza is popular everywhere. Most towns have cheap Chinese eateries, which are usually reliable and popular with independent travellers.

Note that more isolated hotels tend to offer a set menu or a very limited choice to their guests. Even restaurants with an apparently extensive menu may have a rather restricted number of dishes available outside peak tourist season.

Vegetarians can usually be accommodated without too much fuss, even if there are no vegetarian dishes explicitly listed on the menu. Travellers with more unusual dietary requirements, such as a peanut allergy, would be well advised to find out the Malagasy and French words for what they cannot eat and write them down on a card, so that their needs can be communicated unequivocally to waiters and chefs.

Street snacks include slices of coconut and peanuts in a sweet coconut or toffee coating. If you spot a man carrying a glass case on his head, he is probably selling koba (banana, peanuts and rice, ground to a paste, wrapped in a banana leaf and served in slices), sambos (samosas) or nems (spring rolls).

Regional Specialities

Tipping

Tipping is not really customary amongst the Malagasy, but it is increasingly normal in tourist places. At restaurants, about 5% would be plenty.

Drinking Age

18.

Hotels

There’s plenty of choice when it comes to Madagascar’s hotel options, particularly in the capital Antananarivo and towns of Nossi Bé, Toamasina, Majunga, Ifaty and Tamatave. Ongoing tourism initiatives are continuing to add an increasing number of international-standard at moderate prices in major centres. However, it’s certainly possible to stay in budget hotels (around US$10 a night) in the cities. Outside the larger towns, the hotels are much more basic with rustic, shoestring accommodation the norm. Lodging for groups and young people is also available.

Grading: Hotels are classified from 1 to 5 stars (5-star being equivalent to an international standard of about 3 stars); a secondary system of ravinala (travellers' palms) is used for simple, budget accommodation.

Camping Caravaning

Many tour operators offer trips to Madagascar which include an element of outdoor camping as part of the package. If you wish to camp independently, all of the national parks have campsites where you can pitch a tent and some also have dormitories and bungalows outside, but nearby the park’s location. Most have shared bathroom and toilet facilities. It may be hard to get hold of any sophisticated equipment however, so come fully prepared.

History

Until the French invasion of 1895, for most of the 19th century Madagascar had been a kingdom, although historically it had been ruled by a variety of alliances. It remained a French colony until achieving full independence in 1960, following a bloody uprising 13 years previously.

For most of the next 40 years, former military man Didier Ratsiraka held power imposing his own brand of Christian-Marxism until his policies caused spectacular economic collapse.

In the early 2000s, a businessman and former mayor of Antananarivo – Marc Ravalomanana – took over the presidency after achieving a narrow electoral victory, which Ratsiraka initially refused to accept.

There followed seven years of impressive economic growth for Madagascar under Ravalomanana's leadership, accompanied by extensive development such as road building. The international community was impressed by the president's resolve to triple the protected areas of the country to around 10 per cent.

Sadly, during his second term in office, he began to abuse his position for personal gain and public opinion turned against him. A young former DJ named Andry Rajoelina seized this opportunity to topple Ravalomanana in a coup d'état. Rajoelina successfully forced Ravalomanana into exile and appointed himself leader.

Between 2009 and 2014, Madagascar had no internationally recognised government. Most international aid was stopped, living standards across the country dropped, the economy backpedalled and the security situation worsened.

Rajoelina's stated aim was to organise democratic elections, but it soon became clear that he had no intention of giving up power. During those five years he dragged his feet and deliberately derailed plans each time election dates were set, while hurrying through constitutional changes that would favour him as a presidential candidate.

Eventually he realised that the international community would never accept him as rightful president, even if he were to win free and fair democratic elections. He decided to change tack and put forward a proxy candidate called Hery Rajaonarimampianina.

Elections went ahead in late 2013 and Rajaonarimampianina won, having spent eye-watering sums – thought to have come from the sale of vast quantities of illegally logged rosewood timber to China – on campaigning. He assumed the presidency in January 2014, with Rajoelina subsequently declaring his intention to run for president in the future.

Did you know?

• In many regions, savika – cattle wrestling – is a popular recreation.

• The lamba, Madagascar's national dress, is a rectangular length of cloth wrapped around the upper body. Ceremonial lamba can be made of silk or cow hide, but everyday ones are more likely to be cotton, bast or raffia pig skin.

• Libertatia, a possibly fictitious anarchist colony formed by pirates, may have been based on Nosy Boroha, a small island off the northeastern coast of Madagascar.

Religion

Around 52% follow animist beliefs whilst about 41% are Christian. The remainder are Muslim.

Social Conventions

Malagasy people are extremely hospitable and welcoming with a refreshingly open communicative style that can sometimes border on direct. A handshake is the usual form of of greeting between strangers meeting for the first time. If meeting a friend then three kisses on the cheek is fine.

Arrangements and meetings can suffer as a result of a relaxed attitude to clock-watching. Dress is casual, except for posh hotels and restaurants where lightweight suits are advised. Note that military-style clothing should always be avoided, as wearing it can lead to arrest. Restaurants and bars are used for entertaining, with invitations to a family home requiring a good degree of personal acquaintance. An invitation to attend a special celebration is a great honour. Acts of kindness should be rewarded with a gift, but never money. Respect should be afforded to the many local taboos (fady) of the Malagasy – these are various behaviours that you shouldn't do. Although these can change from tribe to tribe and person to person (try to be informed about what they will be before travelling to a new area on the island), some fady are imposed nationwide. Examples include not pointing at tombs, and not killing a propithecus lemur.

Photography: Military, airport or police establishments should not be photographed.

Best Time To Visit:

Madagascar’s highly diverse subtropical climate means it pays to do some research before you plan a trip. Rainy season runs from December to March. This is when the rainforested eastern and northern parts of the country are battered by tropical storms brought on by cyclone season, and temperatures tend to hover around 30ºC (86ºF). Despite being rainy season up north, during this period, the central parts will be a lot drier and cooler, with temperatures around 25ºC (77ºF). The southern and western coasts are the driest parts of the country.

Dry season runs from April to October but tourist numbers don't start to swell until early May. Peak months are July and August, due to the timing of school holidays in Europe and the USA. If visiting for wildlife, September to December is also a good time to visit, as many of the snakes and lizards populating the island come out of hibernation during this time. The mountains, including Antananarivo, are dry, cool and windy during this time of year, shifting to warm and thundery from November to April. Due to the extreme storms and occasional cyclones, travelling to Madagascar between January and March is ill-advised.

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Required Clothing

To cope with the Madagascan climate, lightweights should be worn during the summer on high central plateaux and throughout the year in the north and south. Cotton and natural fibres work better in this sweaty weather. Warmer clothes are advised for during the evenings and winter in mountainous areas. Rainwear is advisable as a precaution.

Dialing Code:

+261

Area(sq km):

587041

Population:

27.691.018

Population Density(per sq km):

41

Population Year:

2020

EU Member:

No

Main emergency number

117