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Serbia Travel Guide

Capital:

Belgrade.

Geography:

Serbia borders Hungary to the north, Romania to the northeast, Bulgaria to the southeast, Kosovo, Macedonia and Albania to the south, Montenegro to the southwest, Bosnia & Herzegovina to the west and Croatia to the northwest. Northern Serbia is dominated by the flat, fertile farmland of the Danube and Tisa valleys. The scenery varies from rich Alpine valleys, vast fertile plains and rolling green hills to bare, rocky gorges as much as 1,140m (3,800ft) deep, thick forests and gaunt limestone mountain regions. Belgrade, the capital, lies at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers.

Government:

Republic.

Head Of State:

President Aleksandar Vucic since June 2017.

Head Of Government:

Prime Minister Milos Vucevic since May 2024.

Electricity:

220 volts AC, 50Hz. European plugs with two round pins are used.

Overview

Capital:

Belgrade.

Geography:

Serbia borders Hungary to the north, Romania to the northeast, Bulgaria to the southeast, Kosovo, Macedonia and Albania to the south, Montenegro to the southwest, Bosnia & Herzegovina to the west and Croatia to the northwest. Northern Serbia is dominated by the flat, fertile farmland of the Danube and Tisa valleys. The scenery varies from rich Alpine valleys, vast fertile plains and rolling green hills to bare, rocky gorges as much as 1,140m (3,800ft) deep, thick forests and gaunt limestone mountain regions. Belgrade, the capital, lies at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers.

Getting There

Getting There By Air

The main carrier is Air Serbia (www.airserbia.com), whose routes include direct flights from the UK. There are plenty of indirect options via other European cities with airlines such as Air France (www.airfrance.com) or Swiss (www.swiss.com). There are no direct flights from the USA.

The major airport is: Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport.

Departure Tax

None.

Flight Times

From London - 2 hours 40 minutes; New York - 10 hours 30 minutes (including stopover).

Getting There By Road

Driving to Serbia from the UK takes around two days, involving travel across Belgium, Germany, Austria and much of the Balkans - it’s bordered by Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Montenegro, Croatia, Kosovo, Macedonia and Romania.

The E-75 motorway takes you through Hungary before heading on towards Novi Sad. The E70 motorway comes from the west, via the border with Croatia. An alternative, although longer route is to drive overland through France, Switzerland and Italy, before taking a ferry from Italy to Montenegro, and continuing the journey from there.

Getting Around

Getting Around By Air

There are no internal flights within Serbia.

Bike

Cycling is possible throughout Serbia and a proportion of the local population uses bikes to get around. The Danube Bike Trail allows cyclists to follow a signposted route along the Danube on designated bike paths throughout the entire country and into the rest of the Balkans.

In Belgrade there are dedicated cycling paths which run along the river and on pavements. Bike hire is possible from a few select rental shops; try iBikeBelgrade (tel: +381 66 900 8386; www.ibikebelgrade.com).

Breakdown Services

For roadside assistance call 1987; for police 192. The number for ambulance services is 194.

Car Hire

Both major international and local firms offer car hire at airports and main towns.

Coach

Travelling by coach is one of the most popular ways to get around Serbia. There is a good network of buses which criss-cross the country and small villages are usually accessible by bus. Lasta (http://lasta.rs) is one of the most biggest and most reliable coach companies.

Documentation

A national driving licence or International Driving Permit is required. No customs documents are required, but car log books, a Green Card and vehicle registration/ownership documents and locally valid insurance policy are necessary.

Getting Around By Rail

Internal rail services are generally poor. Services are often unreliable and slow. Destinations accessible by rail include Belgrade, Nis, Novi Sad, Subotica and Bar on the Montenegrin coast. For further information, contact Serbian Railways (www.serbianrailways.com).

Regulations

Speed limits are 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 100kph (62mph) on major roads, 80kph (50mph) on other roads, and 50kph (31mph) in built-up areas. Road signs may be poorly marked and new signs are likely to be in Cyrillic script in some areas of the country. Seat belts must be worn at all times. Children under 12 are not allowed to sit in the front passenger seat.

Getting Around By Road

Driving throughout Serbia is relatively safe, but you should check your travel insurance covers you throughout the country. Driving at night is not advisable on minor roads in the countryside, owing to the poor condition of some roads. There are tollbooths along the motorways, with foreign-registered vehicles charged at a higher toll than local vehicles. The toll also depends on the size of a vehicle. Foreigners may pay in Euros, but at a 20% premium.

Road Quality

Generally roads are kept in good condition within the cities, with quality deteriorating somewhat in rural areas. The Ibarska Magistrala, which links Belgrade to Montenegro, is a particularly dangerous road and should be avoided when possible.

Side Of Road

r

Taxi

Main cities have metered taxis. In Belgrade, official taxis are identifiable by having a blue taxi sign on the roof of the car. It's possible to negotiate a fare when the meters are not in use, but in this case, agree a fare before setting off.

When arriving at Belgrade airport, only take taxis from the designated area upstairs in departures (not at arrivals). Watch out for taxi drivers who may attempt to scam tourists into paying higher fares by saying a destination is much further away than it should be, or running the meter fast.

Urban Travel

There are good bus services in the main towns, with tram and trolleybuses in Belgrade. You can use multi-day passes or buy a reloadable smartcard. Some trolleybuses have a conductor seated near the rear of the vehicle.

Travel Advice

Before you travel

No travel can be guaranteed safe. Read all the advice in this guide. You may also find it helpful to: 

Travel insurance

If you choose to travel, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance. Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.

About FCDO travel advice

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) provides advice about risks of travel to help you make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice.

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This information is for people travelling on a full 'British citizen' passport from the UK. It is based on the UK government's understanding of the current rules for the most common types of travel.

The authorities in Serbia set and enforce entry rules. If you're not sure how these requirements apply to you, contact the Serbian Embassy in the UK.

Passport validity requirements

Your passport must have an 'expiry date' at least 90 days after the date you plan to leave Serbia.  

Check with your travel provider that your passport and other travel documents meet requirements. Renew your passport if you need to.

You will be denied entry if you do not have a valid travel document or try to use a passport that has been reported lost or stolen.

Visa requirements

You can visit Serbia without a visa for up to 90 days within a 6-month period, for business or tourism.

For details about employment visas and long-stay visas, check the information from the Serbian Embassy in the UK.

If you want to extend your stay while you are in Serbia, you can apply at the police station where you're registered at least 30 days before the 90-day period expires. For more information visit the website of the Serbian Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Make sure you get your passport stamped.

When entering Serbia, make sure border guards stamp your passport. If you try to leave Serbia without an entry stamp you could face charges of illegal immigration, a heavy fine and a prison sentence.

Land border crossings

Only enter Serbia by land through recognised border crossings. Serbian borders remain open for entry and exit, subject to any entry requirements currently in place in neighbouring countries.

Travelling between Serbia and Kosovo

The authorities in Serbia do not consider the designated crossing points with Kosovo to be official international border crossing points.

It is possible to travel from Serbia to Kosovo, and back again.

To travel from Kosovo to Serbia, you must have a Serbian entry stamp from Belgrade, Niš or Kraljevo airports, or from one of Serbia's land border crossings with:

  • Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • Bulgaria
  • Croatia
  • Hungary
  • Montenegro
  • North Macedonia
  • Romania

You are likely to be refused entry into Serbia from Kosovo without a valid Serbian entry stamp. We are also aware of isolated incidents where Serbian authorities have cancelled Kosovo stamps in passports of foreign nationals or denied foreign nationals entry to Serbia if they have Republic of Kosovo stamps in their passports.

If you are planning to travel between Serbia and Kosovo, see the Kosovo travel advice.

Tensions between Serbia and Kosovo can cause difficulties at border crossings with Kosovo.

Registering with the police

You must register with the local police where you're staying within 24 hours of your arrival in Serbia. If you're staying in a hotel, check-in staff will register you automatically. If you do not register, you could get a fine, and face arrest and a court appearance.

Vaccine requirements

For details about medical entry requirements and recommended vaccinations, see TravelHealthPro's Serbia guide.

Customs rules

There are strict rules about goods that can be brought into and out of Serbia. You must declare anything that may be prohibited or subject to tax or duty.

You must declare personal items of value you're carrying – for example, jewellery, cameras and computing equipment. These are exempt from customs duties.

Taking money into and out of Serbia

If you are carrying cash or travellers cheques worth more than 10,000 euros, you must:

  • complete a declaration form at customs on arrival in Serbia – a customs officer will certify this by signing or stamping the form
  • keep a copy of the certified form while you are in Serbia
  • show the certified form when you leave Serbia

If you are taking any Serbian dinars into the country, you must show the receipt from the bank where you bought them.

Customs officers may seize your money if you do not follow these rules.

You should exchange any unwanted dinars before you leave Serbia. British banks do not normally exchange dinars. Do not use street dealers. Only change money through banks or official exchange offices.

It is not possible to exchange Scottish and Northern Irish banknotes in Serbia.

Terrorism

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times.

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on staying safe abroad and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad.

Terrorism in Serbia

Terrorist attacks in Serbia cannot be ruled out.

Attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places visited by foreigners. Terrorists may target religious sites, including churches. There may be increased security in place during festive periods and other major events that might attract large crowds. Remain vigilant and follow the advice of the local authorities.

In June 2024, a lone attacker fired at a police officer with a crossbow outside the Israeli Embassy in the Savski Venac area of Belgrade.

Political situation

There is the potential for disturbances in Belgrade and other towns and cities. There have been mass gatherings in Belgrade and other cities since May 2023. Further gatherings are planned. These can cause significant disruption, including to public transport. To reduce your personal risk, including possible injury:

  • keep up to date with local developments
  • plan ahead to avoid disruption
  • avoid crowds and demonstrations

Crime

Protecting yourself and your belongings

Take sensible precautions to protect yourself from street crime, particularly in larger cities. Pickpockets work in tourist areas, airports, on public transport and at motorway service stations.

Criminals may assume that foreigners are carrying large amounts of cash. Four-wheel-drive and luxury vehicles are also common targets.

Some sporting events have had incidents of violence and petty crime. Incidents are common during derby matches in Belgrade – take extra care in and around stadiums when these are taking place.

Unexploded landmines and bombs

There is still some danger from unexploded landmines and bombs from the 1999 Kosovo conflict. Most of the affected areas are in the mountains to the north and east of Kosovo. Take special care in these areas and keep to marked roads.

Thick vegetation covers most of the dangerous areas. Do not touch anything suspicious and report it to the police.

Laws and cultural differences

Personal ID

You must always carry your passport or – if you are a resident – your ID card for identification purposes. Keep a copy separately in a safe place.

Illegal drugs and prison sentences

There are strict penalties for possessing and trafficking drugs, including long prison sentences.

Using cameras in secure areas

Taking photographs of military and police installations, personnel or vehicles anywhere in Serbia may lead to arrest or difficulties with the authorities.

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex sexual activity is legal in Serbia, and there are anti-discrimination laws. There are LGBT+ friendly hostels, clubs and other events in Belgrade. However, the level of public prejudice against LGBT+ people is still relatively high. Showing affection in public could result in unwanted attention.

Read more advice for LGBT+ travellers.

Transport risks

Road travel

If you are planning to drive in Serbia, see information on driving abroad and check the rules of the road in the RAC's Serbia guide. The guide lists driving regulations and other legal requirements you need to be aware of.

You can drive with a UK photocard driving licence for a series of short visits up to a year, or for a single stay of up to 6 months.

You may find it helpful to have the 1968 version of the international driving permit as Serbian police will be able to recognise it.

If you're staying longer than 6 months, you must get a local licence.

Road conditions

The general standard of roads in Serbia varies widely. Roads are worse in rural areas, especially after bad weather. One particularly dangerous road is the Ibarska Magistrala (linking Belgrade, via Čačak and Užice, to Montenegro).

Dial 1987 for roadside assistance.

Car hire

Many Serbian car hire firms will not allow you to drive their vehicles into Kosovo, Albania or Bulgaria because of security concerns. There have been some incidents where Serbian registered cars have been vandalised, or in some cases set on fire, in more isolated areas of Kosovo.

Bringing a vehicle into Serbia

If you are bringing a vehicle into Serbia, you must have vehicle registration and ownership documents and a locally valid insurance policy.

Check if you need a UK sticker to drive your car outside the UK.

Taxis

You should only use registered taxis – look for a municipal registration number alongside the cab number. Instead of hailing a taxi, you can call one of the radio taxi phone numbers – most operators speak English.

See more information about taxis and public transport from the Belgrade Tourism Organisation.

Rail travel

Trains can be slow, particularly in winter when there are often long delays. Each carriage has an attendant, and local police may carry out random ID checks.

Thieves operate on trains, so take particular care that passports and other valuables are safe. On overnight trains, lock your sleeping berth from the inside for safety.

Extreme weather and natural disasters

Find out what you can do to prepare for and respond to extreme weather and natural hazards.

Wildfires

Wildfires are possible in Serbia from April to October due to the dry and hot weather.  Wildfires are highly dangerous and unpredictable. You should: 

  • take care when visiting or driving through countryside 

  • make sure cigarette ends are properly extinguished 

  • not light fires or barbecues except in designated and marked areas  

  • not leave any rubbish 

If you see a wildfire, call the emergency services on 112. Follow any advice from the police or local authorities.

Flooding

Parts of Serbia can flood after heavy rain. See flood warnings from the Serbian Hydrometeorological Service. If floods affect your area, follow the instructions of the Serbian authorities.

Earthquakes

There is a risk of earthquakes in Serbia, and earth tremors are common. Serious earthquakes are less frequent but can occur. The US Federal Emergency Management Agency has advice on what to before, during and after an earthquake.

Before you travel check that:

  • your destination can provide the healthcare you may need
  • you have appropriate travel insurance for local treatment or unexpected medical evacuation

This is particularly important if you have a health condition or are pregnant.

Emergency medical number

Dial 194 and ask for an ambulance.

Contact your insurance or medical assistance company quickly if you're referred to a medical facility for treatment.

Vaccine recommendations and health risks

At least 8 weeks before your trip:

See what health risks you'll face in Serbia including biting insects and ticks.

Medication

The legal status and regulation of some medicines prescribed or bought in the UK can be different in other countries.

Read best practice when travelling with medicines on TravelHealthPro.

Healthcare in Serbia

FCDO has a list of healthcare facilities in Serbia where some staff will speak English.

The UK has a reciprocal healthcare agreement with Serbia. You're entitled to free emergency treatment.       

To get treatment you must show:

You may need to pay cash for non-emergency treatment or treatment that is not covered under the reciprocal agreement. Make sure you can access money to cover medical treatment.

Some private clinics in Serbia offer treatment for addiction which may not meet UK standards. Seek advice from your local GP or health provider in the UK before undertaking any treatment.

Travel and mental health

Read FCDO guidance on travel and mental health. There is also mental health guidance on TravelHealthPro.

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) cannot provide tailored advice for individual trips. Read this travel advice and carry out your own research before deciding whether to travel.

Emergency services in Serbia

All emergencies: 112

Ambulance: 194

Fire: 193

Police: 192

Contact your travel provider and insurer

Contact your travel provider and your insurer if you are involved in a serious incident or emergency abroad. They will tell you if they can help and what you need to do.

Refunds and changes to travel

For refunds or changes to travel, contact your travel provider. You may also be able to make a claim through insurance. However, insurers usually require you to talk to your travel provider first.

Find out more about changing or cancelling travel plans, including:

  • where to get advice if you are in a dispute with a provider
  • how to access previous versions of travel advice to support a claim

Support from FCDO

FCDO has guidance on staying safe and what to do if you need help or support abroad, including:

Contacting FCDO 

Help abroad  

See how to get help from the UK government abroad including in an emergency. 

Help in the UK  

You can call FCDO in London if you need urgent help because something has happened to a friend or relative abroad.  

Telephone: 020 7008 5000 (24 hours)  

Find out about call charges

Get travel advice updates  

Sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.  

Follow and contact FCDO: 

Risk information for British companies

The Overseas Business Risk service offers information and advice for British companies operating in Serbia on how to manage political, economic, and business security-related risks.

Vaccinations

Title Special Precautions
Diphtheria Yes
Hepatitis A Yes
Malaria No
Rabies Sometimes
Tetanus Yes
Typhoid Sometimes
Yellow Fever No

Overview:

Doctors are well trained but medical facilities are limited. Some medicines may not be as freely available as they are at home. Basic medical treatment is free to UK residents with the better-equipped hospitals located in the bigger cities. Prescribed medicines must be paid for. Private practices and dental clinics will see foreign tourists, but expect to pay a fee; this may be stipulated cash only. Health insurance with emergency repatriation is recommended. Pharmacies are open Mon-Fri 0800-2000 and Sat 0800-1500.

Food Drink:

Mains water is normally chlorinated and, whilst relatively safe to drink, may cause mild abdominal upsets. Bottled water is readily available. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat. If in doubt, use common sense and peel, boil or cook food to reduce chances of an upset stomach. Serbia's exchange rate makes it an attractive place to drink and eat out making the risk of a sore head after overindulging all too high!

Other Risks:

Tick-borne encephalitis is present in some rural areas. Precautions such as using repellent and wearing long trousers should be taken. Pre-exposure vaccination is not always available. Any ticks found should be carefully removed and medical attention sought. Hepatitis B vaccinations are recommended for trips longer than one month. Avoid contact with animals, as rabies can be found in in Serbia. Consider getting vaccinated if you are likely to be in close proximity to animals.

Currency Information:

The official currency in Serbia is the Serbian Dinar. Serbian Dinar (RSD; symbol Дин.) = 100 paras. Notes are in denominations of Дин.5,000, 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of Дин.20, 10, 5, 2 and 1.

Credit Cards:

International credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard are accepted in most shops, hotels and restaurants in Serbia. Diners Club and American Express are not so widely accepted.

ATMs:

ATMs are commonplace across the larger cities of Belgrade and Novi Sad, with most accepting international bank cards. Obtaining cash may be more difficult in the countryside so ensure you have enough money before going to a more rural location.

Travellers Cheques:

Although acceptable in theory, in practice these can be very hard to exchange. It is advisable to take hard currency and credit or debit cards.

Banking Hours:

Mon-Fri 0800-1900, Sat 0800-1500. Some are open on Sunday.

Currency Restrictions:

The import and export of local currency must not exceed €10,000 or equivalent. The import of foreign currencies is unlimited, but must be declared if the value exceeds €10,000 so that the amount imported can be re-exported if necessary. The export of foreign currencies and local currency is limited to the total amount of €10,000 or rather to the imported amount.

Currency Exchange:

As elsewhere in the ex-Yugoslav republics, the most frequently exchanged currencies are the Euro and US Dollar. Pound Sterling can also be changed with ease. Money should be exchanged through official exchange offices only. There are several money-exchange machines in Belgrade (including one at the airport), accepting Pounds Sterling, US Dollars and Euros, giving back Dinars. Scottish and Northern Irish Pound Sterling bank notes are not accepted.

Currencies

Code Symbol
RSD Дин

Exchange Rates

0.71
1.00
1.19
0.96

Language

Serbian, which uses both Cyrillic and Latin script, Hungarian in the north and some Albanian.

Overview:

Public holidays are listed here.

.

List Of Public Holidays

Title Start Date To Be Confirmed
New Year's Day 2024-01-01 00:00:00 0
Orthodox Christmas Day 2024-01-07 00:00:00 0
St Sava Day 2024-01-27 00:00:00 0
National Day 2024-02-15 00:00:00 0
Labour Days 2024-05-01 00:00:00 0
Orthodox Good Friday 2024-05-03 00:00:00 0
Orthodox Easter Monday 2024-05-06 00:00:00 0
Victory Day 2024-05-09 00:00:00 0
St Vitus Day 2024-06-28 00:00:00 0

Note:

Holidays falling on Sunday are observed the following Monday.

Overview:

The following items may be imported into Serbia without incurring customs duty:

 

• 50 cigarettes and 25 cigarillos and 10 cigars and 50g of tobacco or a suitable combination of these tobacco products.

• 1L of spirits or 2L of wines.

• 1 bottle of perfume (up to 50ml) and 1 bottle of eau de toilette (up to 25 ml).

.

Banned Imports:

Drugs, and weapons and ammunition, unless they are for hunting purposes and the hunt is organised by the Hunting Association of Serbia.

Telephone:

There are public payphones in Serbia which accept telephone cards rather than cash. These can be bought at any newsagent or post office. Pre-paid Halo telephone cards costing 200-300 dinars allow both local and international calls, whilst a Halo Plus card allows only international calls at a cheaper rate.

Mobile Telephone:

Roaming agreements exist with most international mobile phone companies. Double-check with your phone company as to whether Serbia is included as part of Europe for data purposes, as some companies classify it outside of the European zone and will charge higher roaming rates. Coverage is good in the north and in Belgrade, but can be patchier in the south.

Internet:

Internet cafés can be found in the main urban centres. Most hotels and self-catering apartments will have Wi-Fi but it may not be wholly reliable. In Belgrade, free Wi-Fi hotspots can be found within proximity of most Nestle ice-cream stands. You do not have to buy an ice-cream to use their Wi-Fi.

Post

The Serbian postal service is reasonably good, with yellow post boxes found in most areas. Post to Western Europe takes from 3-4 days for delivery. Post to the USA and Australia is estimated to take from 5-9 days.

Post Office Hours:

Mon-Fri 0800-1900, Sat 0800-1300.

Media:

The Serbian media is reasonably free and offers differing perspectives that vary from sensationalist to serious along with a spectrum of political stances that range from liberal to nationalist. The main daily newspapers are Vecernje Novosti, Glas Javnosti and Kurir.

Hike through the Fruska Gora region

Go hiking or birdwatching in the hills of the national park of Fruska Gora to the south of Novi Sad, following woodland trails and discovering half-hidden monasteries. Dominated by a lone mountain, the reserve stretches as far as the Danube River, to the edge of the historic city of Sremski Karlovci.

Follow Serbia's old wine routes

Serbia is a long-running producer of wines and following some of the old wine routes is rewarding. The Palic wine route follows the trail of "Wines from the Sands" where the winemaking tradition is over 2,000 years old. Other wine routes in Serbia include Vrsac, Oplenac, Smederevo, Negotin and Zupa.

Wonder at the museums of Belgrade

Visit some of Belgrade's excellent museums and galleries: the Nikola Tesla Museum for live demonstrations of the scientist's impressive inventions and the Museum of Yugoslav History where former prime minister Tito is buried within the grounds. At the Ethnographic Musuem visitors can learn more about Serbia's culture and see handcrafted artefacts.

Dine out in Skadarlija

Belgrade's 19th-century bohemian quarter boasts restaurants serving typical Serbian cuisine, especially cevapi, grilled minced meat. If you choose to sit outside, don't be surprised if you're serenaded at dinner. There are also several art galleries nearby.

Tap into the cultural buzz of the capital Belgrade

Belgrade has a bit of everything. In the Old Town, visit Kalemegdan Park and Belgrade Fortress overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Nearby landmarks include the enormous Cathedral of St Sava and Princess Ljubica's Konak, an 1831 Turkish-style residence. There's also an irreverent nightlife held down by Sava, for which Belgrade has earned the moniker "new Berlin".

Explore the culture wonders of Novi Sad

Often referred to as the "Serbian Athens", Novi Sad is an attractive city on the Danube and a cultural centre with museums, galleries, libraries and theatres along with numerous churches that represent a wide variety of denominations. The second city is also home to the imposing Petrovaradin Citadel.

Disentangle the diverse history of Nis

See the Ottoman sights of Nis, Serbia's third largest city in the southeast boast plenty of relics from the Ottoman era, including a fortress and the gruesome Skull Tower. The remains of the Roman town of Mediana also lie in the vicinity.

Ride the Sargan Eight Railway

Take a pleasure ride on the Sargan Eight Railway at Mokra Gora, close to the Bosnian border. An old narrow-gauge railway that was once an important part of the Belgrade to Sarajevo route, it was closed in the 1970s. The hour-long railway journey climbs 300m (1,000ft) in just 3.5km (2 miles), winding through pretty green hills most of the way.

Make a pilgrimage to the Monastery of Zica

Near Kraljevo, visit the restored Monastery of Zica where the kings of Serbia were once crowned. It was built by the first King of the Serbs in the 13th century, and is curious red-coloured structure, with a modest Orthodox-style dome. In the same part of central Serbia are the pretty Kalenic and Ljubostina convents, both fine examples of the Serbian Morava School of architecture.

Explore the sprawling Djerdap National Park

The gorgeous Djerdap National Park spans 64,000 hectares (158,146 acres) and is a paradise for nature lovers. Its main attraction is the Djerdap Gorge, a river valley made from four gorges. Other national parks worth a look are Sara, Fruska Gora, Kopaonik and Tara.

Overview

Shopping isn’t Serbia’s strong point but there are still gems and bargains to be found. Western brands are thin on the ground (the likes of H&M having just opened in Belgrade) but most urban centres have a smattering of malls housing a variety of brands. For those looking for something different, Belgrade has plenty of independent boutiques where you’ll find the best of Serbia's designers stocked.

Concept stores like Supermarket (www.supermarket.rs) and Mikser House (http://mikser.rs/en) are great places to pick up interesting design and interiors pieces, as well as fashion, whilst independents like L’Atelier (http://latelierbelgrade.blogspot.co.uk) stock chic high-end pieces from both international and domestic labels. More designer clothing shops can be found along the pedestrianised street of Knez Mikhailova. A couple of regular flea markets are held within the city but the quality of product isn’t particularly high. It’s fine to haggle if buying in bulk.

For special purchases, look out for markets or street stalls selling embroidery, lace, leatherwork, knitwear, metalwork and Turkish coffee sets.

Opening Hours

Mon-Fri 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Sat 0800-1500 (many shops are open all day Sat). Supermarkets and grocery stores keep longer hours. Many shops on Belgrade's Knez Mihailova stay open until late in the evening.

Overview

Like most of the Balkans, Serbian cuisine is strongly influenced by its centuries of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian rule, so expect plenty of cevapcici – grilled minced meat – borek-style meat pies, and baklava.

There's also a taste for cured meats here, as well as hearty stews, soups and examples of Western influence such as pickled foods and jams. Turkish-style coffee is popular in Serbia, though it has begun to be overtaken by espresso in recent years, at least amongst the metropolitan crowd.

Diners can also expect plenty of fish on the menu, particularly freshwater fish such as trout and carp. Vegetarian options are, alas, somewhat limited.

Regional Specialities

Tipping

10% is expected.

Drinking Age

18.

Hotels

Deluxe/5-star hotels in Serbia are confined to Belgrade and Novi Sad. In the smaller towns there may be little choice beyond the mid-price, state-owned range. Some former state-owned hotels in Serbia have been taken into private ownership and refurbished and a number of small boutique hotels have opened in Belgrade, Novi Sad and Nis.

Grading: Classification is from 1 to 5 stars.

Camping Caravaning

Official sites are rare in Serbia. A list is available from the National Tourism Organisation of Serbia.

Other

History

Inhabited since prehistoric times and conquered by Celts, Greeks and Romans over the ages, the area occupied by modern-day Serbia has had a potted history. But the country's story really begins with the arrival of the Serbs on the borders of the Byzantine Empire in the 6th and 7th centuries. Cyril and Methodius converted the Serbs to Orthodox Christianity in the 9th century, which led to years of struggle and cooperation with the Byzantines.

By the 13th century, Serbia was independent – but not for long. As the Byzantine Empire was taken over by the Ottomans, the Turks commenced half a millennium of rule over the Serbs. This era changed many aspects of the country's culture – notably the cuisine – without fundamentally altering the Serbian identity, which remained Orthodox Christian and rather proud of its embattled history.

During the 19th century, Serbs gained control over their country again, but the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand by a Bosnian Serb triggered the invasion of Serbia by Austria-Hungary and the start of WWI. The aftermath of the war saw the beginnings of Yugoslavia, initially a kingdom composed of Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia and Macedonia.

Serbian resistance to fascist rule during WWII led to great suffering at the hands of the Nazis, though the partisans led by one Josip Broz Tito won the day; Tito eventually became the leader of post-war Yugoslavia, managing to unite the disparate contingents of the country while he lived.

Later, though, Serbian dominance of Yugoslavia led to violence and the bloody disintegration of the composite state. The culmination of this was the attempt by the Serbs to empty Kosovo of its Albanian population, leading to the US and NATO-led bombing of the country in 1999. In 2000, the infamous reign of Milosevic finally came to an end when he tried to deny the results of the country's presidential elections; Serbs took to the streets in Belgrade and in 2001 Milosevic was arrested and extradited to The Hague to face claims of war crimes.

Montenegro left its union with Serbia in 2003, while Kosovo declared independence in 2008; to date, Serbia has not formally recognised the latter state. The country currently has candidate status to become a member of the European Union.

Did you know?
• It is believed that the Vinča, who occupied the Serbian area around 6000 BC, had one of the earliest known forms of writing.
• Due to the indomitable resistance to fascist rule, Serb deaths during WWII are thought to number as much as half a million.
• Prime minister Zoran Ðinđić was assassinated in 2003; he was instrumental in bringing about Milosevic's extradition to The Hague.

Religion

Majority Eastern Orthodox Serbs, with a Muslim ethnic Albanian minority, a Muslim ethnic Slavic minority in the Raska region of the southwest, a Roman Catholic ethnic Serbian and Croatian minority, a Protestant ethnic Hungarian minority (in the province of Vojvodina) and a small Jewish community.

Social Conventions

Avoid taking pictures of military installations and of obvious bomb damage from 1999, which may cause ill feeling.

Best Time To Visit:

Serbia has a mild continental climate with cold winters and warm summers. The north of Serbia and the upland regions have a continental climate, with the typical cold winters and hot summers. The summer months of June to August offer a lovely hot climate and little rain. The mountains experience heavy snowfall, and the ski season is generally from December to March.

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Required Clothing

In winter, mediumweight clothing and heavy overcoat; in summer, lightweight clothing and raincoat required.

Dialing Code:

+381

Area(sq km):

77474

Population:

6.982.084

Population Density(per sq km):

93

Population Year:

2018

EU Member:

No

Main emergency number

194
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